NAŌ

About NAŌ

Sushi and Japanese plates cut with Mediterranean and Asian-fusion touches set the tone at 22 Quai Jean Jaurès, where the kitchen works in the shared-table register that suits a long harbourfront dinner. Deep house and lounge-leaning chill house run under the meal and firm up as plates clear, so tables that sat down at nine are rarely in a hurry to leave. Bottle and table service are the operating model, with private dining available for groups, and the $$$$ band reflects a room that fills with socialites, professionals and the occasional recognisable face drawn from the Saint-Tropez harbour crowd — largely locals and Western European regulars. Thursday through Saturday are the nights to book; the season runs May to October and closes with the rest of the port. Smart casual is enforced, and the crowd skews 25 to 45, with 18 the minimum for drinking.